Friday, 30 July 2010

Mondulkiri Destination Guide

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Mondulkiri Destination Map

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Mondulkiri

Mondulkiri is an eastern province of Cambodia, which is the most sparsely populated province in the whole country although being the largest province in Cambodia. The province is chock full of natural beauty, with thickly forested mountains, powerful waterfalls and the lush green rolling hills of the western side. Despite the growing deforestation, especially due to the valuable minerals remaining in the deep red, fertile ground, Mondulkiri has still one of the biggest successional woodlands of Cambodia. Except being in Sen Monorom, you’ll find deep pure jungle, with a huge variety of flora and fauna. You may also find gigantic and beautiful waterfalls, where you can take an empowering shower, such as the impressive Bou Sraa.

Sen Monorom is the provincial capital and doesn’t show up as a typical Cambodian town, while it is the only town the province has to speak of. With approx. 7500 inhabitants, 20 guesthouses, 12 restaurants, 3 bars and no post office it is often compared to American Wild West frontier towns. Concerning the quietness and beauty of Sen Monorom people from other parts of the country move here and therefore the land price doubled from 2006 to 2007.
The town of Sen Monorom is the best base camp for travellers who want to explore the surrounding areas. A quiet but beautiful town nestled into the hills; it has a lot of potential to develop into a centre for non-intrusive eco-tourism. At present, it’s very undeveloped, which gives you a feeling of going somewhere off the beaten tourist trail. Add to that the communities of hill tribe people, who are not affected by mass-tourism, as they are in neighbouring Thailand, and you have an area that is very attractive to the adventure traveller.

Also interesting is the variety of languages being used: Khmer, hill tribe languages, Vietnamese and Lao. 80 percent of the population in Mondulkiri is made up of ten tribal minorities, with the majority of them being the Chunchiet from the tribe of the Phnong. The remaining 20 percent are Khmer, Chinese and Muslim Cham. Most of the population lives off the land, planting rice, fruit trees and a variety of vegetables. Others grow, coffee, strawberries, rubber and cashew nuts. More and more houses are built in the typical Khmer style. Visiting the hill tribes you still can find the traditional Phnong houses. In the houses you can find traditional gongs and big jars, whereby the last ones are said to be more than a thousand years old. There are various sorts of gongs used for different occasions. Jars and gongs are among the most valuable possessions in an indigenous community, whether in traditional, spiritual or material terms. During the Khmer Rouge Regime those objects were buried in hidden places in the jungle and in many cases they still wait in the ground.
  • Where To Stay
  • Dining Out
  • Shopping
Long Vibol Guest House and Restaurant. (Tel: (012) 944 647, (012) 823 054)
This nice guesthouse with a lot of bungalows is situated past the Sen Monorom airstrip. It feels like that this guesthouse is far more targeted towards the ngo crowd rather than independent travellers and backpackers. Mr Vibol speaks fine English, though when we visited he appeared to be pretty weary of answering backpacker questions. The restaurant here dishes up some good food; e.g. the steamed fish looked particularly good, but the preparation of the food takes quite a time. The room rates are from US$8-30, depending on what you want to be included and for how much people.

Pich Kiri. (Tel: (012) 932 102, (012) 316 108)
It’s actually the oldest accommodation place in Sen Monorom and for the budget traveller it remains the best choice. Rooms are very clean and kitted out with TV, cold-water showers and massive wooden chairs. Motorbikes can be rented here and trekking and elephant riding can also be organised. It’s located east from the market next to the street leading to the centre.

Holiday Guesthouse. (Tel: (012) 936606)
It’s also next to the street leading to the centre, but a bit further away. They have a small restaurant offering quite common Khmer dishes. The room rates are around US$8-10.

Arun Reah 2 Guesthouse. (Tel: (012) 856667)
This big guesthouse is 1,5km far from the centre on the main road, which goes to Snoul. It covers also a small restaurant offering a limited menu. They have nice bungalows with wonderful views over the rolling hills. The room rates are around US$10.

Nature Lodge.
It's the first accommodation option outside Sen Monorom. Located in a magical valley 2 km above the town, it is surrounded by the misty hills of the Mondulkiri highlands. The lodge is for people who like to explore for themselves, it's not in any guidebook, just follow the signs and you will find us. The room rates are varying so come and have a look yourself.

Because this is a small and little-developed tourist destination, the restaurants don’t think about serving tourists. There just haven’t been many coming to Sen Monorom. And with the locals usually eating at home, the restaurants don’t stock much food. The procedure here is to go one our before to the restaurant you would like to eat and tell them what you would like to eat. You can leave then, while they go to the market to buy the ingredients and return to the restaurant to prepare the dishes. An alternative would be to stop by in the morning and tell them what you want for lunch or evening meal. It’s certainly not the norm at destinations around Cambodia, but here it seems to work out okay.

Anyhow there are more restaurants opening during the last 2 years, which serve mostly Khmer or Vietnamese food. You might ask them to combine something for a more European style.

Pich Kiri.
It’s actually the oldest accommodation place in Sen Monorom serving their guests also fresh, tasty and reasonable dishes. It’s located east from the market next to the street leading to the centre.

Holiday Guesthouse.
It’s also next to the street leading to the centre, but a bit further away. They have a small restaurant offering quite common Khmer dishes.

Arun Reah 2 Guesthouse.
This guesthouse is 1,5km far from the centre on the main road, which goes to Snoul. It covers also a small restaurant offering a limited menu.

Corner Restaurant.
There isn’t a name, but it’s easy to find. It’s a very simple place, but they do a good job concerning the food and they have drinks with ice. The prices are very reasonable. It’s right next to the centres round about (two buffalos).

Twin Restaurants.
There are two restaurants near the entrance area to the market. They double as community entertainment centers; local residents gather outside to gaze at videos on the TV screens inside. They can also serve the necessary karaoke hall function.

Bananas.
If you’re eager to have some real European food made by a European you’ll need to visit the Bananas. The wodden house next to a tiny creek is owned by a German woman named Tanja. She is a cook and cooks on request. The dishes are real good and quite reasonable. It’s situated down the hill from the centre and then left before you pass the bridge.

Many of the goods in the market are from nearby Vietnam, It’s an all-purpose market, but it doesn’t have the feel of the typical Cambodian market, which is probably again due to the closeness of Vietnam and the hill tribe people who come here.
There are definitely some nice bracelets, adornments or Kramas made by the hill tribes acquirable. You’ll find noodle, dessert and fruit stalls at the font end of the market and the moneychangers are in front as well. They change dollars, riel and the Vietnamese dong.
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