Cambodia Destination Guide

No one knows for certain how long people have lived in what is now Cambodia, as studies of its prehistory are undeveloped. A carbon-l4 dating from a cave in northwestern Cambodia suggests that people using stone tools lived in the cave as early as 4000 bc, and rice has been grown on Cambodian soil since well before the 1st century ad. The first Cambodians likely arrived long before either of these dates. They probably migrated from the north, although nothing is known about their language or their way of life.

By the beginning of the 1st century ad, Chinese traders began to report the existence of inland and coastal kingdoms in Cambodia. These kingdoms already owed much to Indian culture, which provided alphabets, art forms, architectural styles, religions (Hinduism and Buddhism), and a stratified class system. Local beliefs that stressed the importance of ancestral spirits coexisted with the Indian religions and remain powerful today.

Cambodia's modem-day culture has its roots in the 1st to 6th centuries in a state referred to as Funan, known as the oldest Indianized state in Southeast Asia. It is from this period that evolved Cambodia's language, part of the Mon-Khmer family, which contains elements of Sanskrit, its ancient religion of Hinduism and Buddhism. Historians have noted, for example, that Cambodians can be distinguished from their neighbors by their clothing - checkered scarves known as Kramas are worn instead of straw hats.

Funan gave way to the Angkor Empire with the rise to power of King Jayavarman II in 802. The following 600 years saw powerful Khmer kings dominate much of present day Southeast Asia, from the borders of Myanmar east to the South China Sea and north to Laos. It was during this period that Khmer kings built the most extensive concentration of religious temples in the world - the Angkor temple complex. The most successful of Angkor's kings, Jayavarman II, Indravarman I, Suryavarman II and Jayavarman VII, also devised a masterpiece of ancient engineering: a sophisticated irrigation system that includes barays (gigantic man-made lakes) and canals that ensured as many as three rice crops a year. Part of this system is still in use today.

The Khmer Kingdom
Early Chinese writers referred to a kingdom in Cambodia that they called Funan. Modern-day archaeological findings provide evidence of a commercial society centered on the Mekong Delta that flourished from the 1st century to the 6th century. Among these findings are excavations of a port city from the 1st century, located in the region of Oc-Eo in what is now southern Vietnam. Served by a network of canals, the city was an important trade link between India and China. Ongoing excavations in southern Cambodia have revealed the existence of another important city near the present-day village of Angkor Borei.

A group of inland kingdoms, known collectively to the Chinese as Zhenla, flourished in the 6th and 7th centuries from southern Cambodia to southern Laos. The first stone inscriptions in the Khmer language and the first brick and stone Hindu temples in Cambodia date from the Zhenla period.

Angkor Era
Bayon Temple, Angkor Thum The giant faces carved on the Bayon temple at the Angkor Thum complex in northwestern Cambodia represent both the Buddha and King Jayavarman VII (ruled about 1130-1219). Although a Buddhist temple, Angkor Thum was modeled after the great Hindu temple complex of Angkor Wat.

In the early 9th century a Khmer (ethnic Cambodian) prince returned to Cambodia from abroad. He probably arrived from nearby Java or Sumatra, where he may have been held hostage by island kings who had asserted control over portions of the Southeast Asian mainland. In a series of ceremonies at different sites, the prince declared himself ruler of a new independent kingdom, which unified several local principalities. His kingdom eventually came to be centered near present-day Siemreab in northwestern Cambodia. The prince, known to his successors as Jayavarman II, inaugurated a cult honoring the Hindu god Shiva as a devaraja (Sanskrit term meaning "god-king"). The cult, which legitimized the king's rule by linking him with Shiva, persisted at the Cambodian court for more than two hundred years.

Between the early 9th century and the early 15th century, 26 monarchs ruled successively over the Khmer kingdom (known as Angkor, the modern name for its capital city). The successors of Jayavarman II built the great temples for which Angkor is famous. Historians have dated more than a thousand temple sites and over a thousand stone inscriptions (most of them on temple walls) to this era. Notable among the Khmer builder-kings were Suyavarman II, who built the temple known as Angkor Wat in the mid-12th century, and Jayavarman VII, who built the Bayon temple at Angkor Thum and several other large Buddhist temples half a century later. Jayavarman VII, a fervent Buddhist, also built hospitals and rest houses along the roads that crisscrossed the kingdom. Most of the monarchs, however, seem to have been more concerned with displaying and increasing their power than with the welfare of their subjects.

Ancient City of Angkor This map shows the layout of the ancient city of Angkor, capital of the Cambodian Khmer kingdom from the 9th century to the 15th century. The city's huge stone temples were both civic centers and religious symbols of the Hindu cosmos. Historians believe that Angkor's network of canals and barays (reservoirs) were used for irrigation.

At its greatest extent, in the 12th century, the Khmer kingdom encompassed (in addition to present-day Cambodia) parts of present-day Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Myanmar (formerly Burma), and the Malay Peninsula. Thailand and Laos still contain Khmer ruins and inscriptions. The kings at Angkor received tribute from smaller kingdoms to the north, east, and west, and conducted trade with China. The capital city was the center of an impressive network of reservoirs and canals, which historians theorize supplied water for irrigation. Many historians believe that the abundant harvests made possible by irrigation supported a large population whose labor could be drawn on to construct the kings' temples and to fight their wars. The massive temples, extensive roads and waterworks, and confident inscriptions give an illusion of stability that is undermined by the fact that many Khmer kings gained the throne by conquering their predecessors. Inscriptions indicate that the kingdom frequently suffered from rebellions and foreign invasions.

Historians have not been able to fully explain the decline of the Khmer kingdom in the 13th and 14th centuries. However, it was probably associated with the rise of powerful Thai kingdoms that had once paid tribute to Angkor, and to population losses following a series of wars with these kingdoms. Another factor may have been the introduction of Theravada Buddhism, which taught that anyone could achieve enlightenment through meritorious conduct and meditation. These egalitarian ideas undermined the hierarchical structure of Cambodian society and the power of prominent Hindu families. After a Thai invasion in 1431, what remained of the Cambodian elite shifted southeastward to the vicinity of Phnom Penh.

Cambodia Dark Age
This map of Southeast Asia in the mid-16th century shows the major centers of power in the region prior to the arrival of Europeans. During this period, these kingdoms were constantly at war. Eventually the Kingdom of Ayutthaya (modern Thailand) expanded to the north and east, absorbing much of Lan Na and Lan Xang (modern Laos). Dai Viet (modern Vietnam) expanded to the south, taking over the remaining territory of the Kingdom of Champa and the southern tip of the Kingdom of Lovek (modern Cambodia). Toungoo evolved into modern Myanmar.

The four centuries of Cambodian history following the abandonment of Angkor are poorly recorded, and therefore historians know little about them beyond the bare outlines. Cambodia retained its language and its cultural identity despite frequent invasions by the powerful Thai kingdom of Ayutthaya and incursions by Vietnamese forces. Indeed, for much of this period, Cambodia was a relatively prosperous trading kingdom with its capital at Lovek, near present-day Phnom Penh. European visitors wrote of the Buddhist piety of the inhabitants of the Kingdom of Lovek. During this period, Cambodians composed the country's most important work of literature, the Reamker (based on the Indian myth of the Ramayana).

In the late 18th century, a civil war in Vietnam and disorder following a Burmese invasion of Ayutthaya spilled over into Cambodia and devastated the area. In the early 19th century, newly established dynasties in Vietnam and Thailand competed for control over the Cambodian court. The warfare that ensued, beginning in the l830s, came close to destroying Cambodia.

French Rule
Phnom Penh, as planned by the French, came to resemble a town in provincial France.

By the second half of the 19th century, France had begun to expand its colonial penetration of Indochina (the peninsula between India and China). In 1863 France accepted the Cambodian king's invitation to impose a protectorate over his severely weakened kingdom, halting the country's dismemberment by Thailand and Vietnam. For the next 90 years, France ruled Cambodia. In theory, French administration was indirect, but in practice the word of French officials was final on all major subjects-including the selection of Cambodia's kings. The French left Cambodian institutions, including the monarchy, in place, and gradually developed a Cambodian civil service, organized along French lines. The French administration neglected education but built roads, port facilities, and other public works. Phnom Penh, as planned by the French, came to resemble a town in provincial France.

The French invested relatively little in Cambodia's economy compared to that of Vietnam, which was also under French control. However, they developed rubber plantations in eastern Cambodia, and the kingdom exported sizable amounts of rice under their rule. The French also restored the Angkor temple complex and deciphered Angkorean inscriptions, which gave Cambodians a clear idea of their medieval heritage and kindled their pride in Cambodia's past. Because France left the monarchy, Buddhism, and the rhythms of rural life undisturbed, anti-French feeling was slow to develop.

King Sihanouk, through skillful maneuvering, managed to gain Cambodia's independence peacefully in 1953.

During World War II (1939-1945), Japanese forces entered French Indochina but left the compliant French administration in place. On the verge of defeat in 1945, the Japanese removed their French collaborators and installed a nominally independent Cambodian government under the recently crowned young king, Norodom Sihanouk. France reimposed its protectorate in early 1946 but allowed the Cambodians to draft a constitution and to form political parties. Soon afterward, fighting erupted throughout Indochina as nationalist groups, some with Communist ideologies, struggled to win independence from France. Most of the fighting took place in Vietnam, in a conflict known as the First Indochina War (1946-1954). In Cambodia, Communist guerrilla forces allied with Vietnamese Communists gained control of much of the country. However, King Sihanouk, through skillful maneuvering, managed to gain Cambodia's independence peacefully in 1953, a few months earlier than Vietnam. The Geneva Accords of 1954, which marked the end of the First Indochina War, acknowledged Sihanouk's government as the sole legitimate authority in Cambodia.

Modern State

Sihanouk's campaign for independence sharpened his political skills and increased his ambitions. In 1955 he abdicated the throne in favor of his father to pursue a full-time political career, free of the constitutional constraints of the monarchy. In a move aimed at dismantling Cambodia's fledgling political parties, Sihanouk inaugurated a national political movement known as the Sangkum Reastr Niyum (People's Socialist Community), whose members were not permitted to belong to any other political group. The Sangkum won all the seats in the national elections of 1955, benefiting from Sihanouk's popularity and from police brutality at many polling stations. Sihanouk served as prime minister of Cambodia until 1960, when his father died and he was named head of state. Sihanouk remained widely popular among the people but was brutal to his opponents.

In the late 1950s the Cold War (period of tension between the United States and its allies and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, or USSR, and its allies) intensified in Asia. In this climate, foreign powers, including the United States, the USSR, and China, courted Sihanouk. Cambodia's importance to these countries stemmed from events in neighboring Vietnam, where tension had begun to mount between a Communist regime in the north and a pro-Western regime in the south. The USSR supported the Vietnamese Communists, while the United States opposed them, and China wanted to contain Vietnam for security reasons. Each of the foreign powers hoped that Cambodian support would bolster its position in the region. Sihanouk pursued a policy of neutrality that drew substantial economic aid from the competing countries.

In 1965, however, Sihanouk broke off diplomatic relations with the United States. At the same time, he allowed North Vietnamese Communists, then fighting the Vietnam War against the United States and the South Vietnamese in southern Vietnam, to set up bases on Cambodian soil. As warfare intensified in Vietnam, domestic opposition to Sihanouk from both radical and conservative elements increased. The Cambodian Communist organization, known as the Workers Party of Kampuchea (later renamed the Communist Party of Kampuchea, or CPK), had gone underground after failing to win any concessions at the Geneva Accords, but now they took up arms once again. As the economy became unstable, Cambodia became difficult to govern single-handedly. In need of economic and military aid, Sihanouk renewed diplomatic relations with the United States. Shortly thereafter, in 1969, U.S. president Richard Nixon authorized a bombing campaign against Cambodia in an effort to destroy Vietnamese Communist sanctuaries there.

Khmer Republic

In March 1970 Cambodia's legislature, the National Assembly, deposed Sihanouk while he was abroad. The conservative forces behind the coup were pro-Western and anti-Vietnamese. General Lon Nol, the country's prime minister, assumed power and sent his poorly equipped army to fight the North Vietnamese Communist forces encamped in border areas. Lon Nol hoped that U.S. aid would allow him to defeat his enemies, but American support was always geared to events in Vietnam. In April U.S. and South Vietnamese troops invaded Cambodia, searching for North Vietnamese, who moved deeper into Cambodia. Over the next year, North Vietnamese troops destroyed the offensive capacity of Lon Nol's army.

In October 1970 Lon Nol inaugurated the Khmer Republic. Sihanouk, who had sought asylum in China, was condemned to death despite his absence. By that time, Chinese and North Vietnamese leaders had persuaded the prince to establish a government in exile, allied with North Vietnam and dominated by the CPK, whom Sihanouk referred to as the Khmer Rouge (French for "Red Khmers").

In 1975, despite massive infusions of U.S. aid, the Khmer Republic collapsed, and Khmer Rouge forces occupied Phnom Penh.

The United States continued bombing Cambodia until the Congress of the United States halted the campaign in 1973. By that time, Lon Nol's forces were fighting not only the Vietnamese but also the Khmer Rouge. The general lost control over most of the Cambodian countryside, which had been devastated by U.S. bombing. The fighting severely damaged the nation's infrastructure and caused high numbers of casualties. Hundreds of thousands of refugees flooded into the cities. In 1975, despite massive infusions of U.S. aid, the Khmer Republic collapsed, and Khmer Rouge forces occupied Phnom Penh. Three weeks later, North Vietnamese forces achieved victory in South Vietnam.

Democratic Kampuchea

Pol Pot Pol Pot is a pseudonym for the Cambodian guerrilla commander Saloth Sar, who organized the Communist guerrilla force known as the Khmer Rouge. The Khmer Rouge ousted General Lon Nol in 1975, establishing a brutal Communist regime that ruled until 1979.

Immediately after occupying Cambodia's towns, the Khmer Rouge ordered all city dwellers into the countryside to take up agricultural tasks. The move reflected both the Khmer Rouge's contempt for urban dwellers, whom they saw as enemies, and their utopian vision of Cambodia as a nation of busy, productive peasants. The leader of the regime, who remained concealed from the public, was Saloth Sar, who used the pseudonym Pol Pot. The government, which called itself Democratic Kampuchea (DK), claimed to be seeking total independence from foreign powers but accepted economic and military aid from its major allies, China and North Korea.

Khmer Rouge Carnage The Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, killed close to 1.7 million people in the mid- to late 1970s. In this photo, human bones and skulls fill a museum in Cambodia that had been used as a prison and torture center during Pol Pot's reign, Sygma.

Without identifying themselves as Communists, the Khmer Rouge quickly introduced a series of far-reaching and often painful socialist programs. The people given the most power in the new government were the largely illiterate rural Cambodians who had fought alongside the Khmer Rouge in the civil war. DK leaders severely restricted freedom of speech, movement, and association, and forbade all religious practices. The regime controlled all communications along with access to food and information. Former city dwellers, now called "new people," were particularly badly treated. The Khmer Rouge killed intellectuals, merchants, bureaucrats, members of religious groups, and any people suspected of disagreeing with the party. Millions of other Cambodians were forcibly relocated, deprived of food, tortured, or sent into forced labor.

While in power, the Khmer Rouge murdered, worked to death, or killed by starvation close to 1.7 million Cambodians.

The Khmer Rouge also attacked neighboring countries in an attempt to reclaim territories lost by Cambodia many centuries before. After fighting broke out with Vietnam (then united under the Communists) in 1977, DK's ideology became openly racist. Ethnic minorities in Cambodia, including ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese, were hunted down and expelled or massacred. Purges of party members accused of treason became widespread. People in eastern Cambodia, suspected of cooperating with Vietnam, suffered severely, and hundreds of thousands of them were killed. While in power, the Khmer Rouge murdered, worked to death, or killed by starvation close to 1.7 million Cambodians-more than one-fifth of the country's population.

The war with Vietnam went badly for Cambodia, and in the second half of 1978 the DK tried to open the country up to the wider world, inviting journalists to visit and extending diplomatic recognition to several nonsocialist countries. In December 1978 the Vietnamese launched a blitzkrieg assault on Cambodia, using more than l00,000 troops. A group of Cambodian Communist rebels, the Khmer National United Front for National Salvation (KNUFNS), accompanied them. On January 7, 1979, the invading forces occupied Phnom Penh, which the Khmer Rouge leaders had abandoned the day before. Pol Pot, his colleagues, and hundreds of thousands of followers sought refuge over the next few months along the Thai-Cambodian border. There they were protected by the Thai regime, which was hostile to Vietnam.

Vietnam Domination

Vietnam established a satellite regime called the People's Republic of Kampuchea (PRK) in January 1979. The new government included many former members of the Khmer Rouge who had defected to Vietnam, as well as some Cambodians who had sought refuge in Vietnam before the Khmer Rouge victory in 1975. After coming to power, the regime restored much of Cambodia's pre-1975 way of life, including the practice of Buddhism and a nationwide education system. For the time being, however, agriculture remained collectivized. Like all previous regimes, the new government treated its opponents harshly; like the Khmer Rouge, it severely limited people's freedom of expression. The pro-Vietnamese Kampuchean Peoples' Revolutionary Party (KPRP) monopolized political power and swept the 1981 elections for the National Assembly.

Meanwhile, remnants of the Khmer Rouge and other Cambodians who had fled to Thailand formed an anti-Vietnamese government in exile, which continued to be known as DK. China, Thailand, and the United States had disapproved of the overthrow of DK, viewing it as Vietnamese aggression, and encouraged the formation of the government in exile. With the support of these countries, DK retained Cambodia's seat in the United Nations (UN). Only a few foreign governments, including the USSR and India, recognized the PRK as Cambodia's legitimate government. Foreign aid to Cambodia was largely limited to the Soviet-led bloc of Communist nations.

Throughout the 1980s, Vietnam maintained more than 100,000 troops in Cambodia. Conflict between PRK and DK forces, combined with Cambodia's relative isolation, produced continuing economic instability. Thousands of people were killed in battle or maimed by landmines. In 1985 Cambodia's foreign minister, Hun Sen, became prime minister of the PRK.

Weary of socialism and the harsh conditions inside Cambodia, more than 500,000 Cambodians sought asylum in Thailand in the 1980s. More than 300,000 of these people eventually resettled in other countries, especially France and the United States. This outflow deprived Cambodia of thousands of trained personnel and removed many members of the small elite, whose ranks had already been thinned through execution and fatal illnesses under the Khmer Rouge.

Recent Development

In September 1989, as the Cold War ended and Soviet financing of the Vietnamese forces in Cambodia fell sharply, Vietnam withdrew its troops from Cambodia. The withdrawal left the Cambodian regime, under young prime minister Hun Sen, in a precarious position, deprived of all substantial foreign aid and threatened militarily by the forces of the Khmer Rouge and their allies on the Thai-Cambodian border. Soon afterward the PRK officially abandoned socialism, renamed itself the State of Cambodia (SOC), and introduced a range of reforms aimed at attracting foreign investment and increasing the popularity of the ruling KPRP, renamed the Cambodian People's Party (CPP).

Some members of the government became millionaires overnight, while the national economy was still stumbling to its feet.

A program of privatization, which ended collectivized agriculture, and a headlong rush toward free-market economics from 1989 to 1992 widened the inequities in Cambodian society. Some members of the government became millionaires overnight, while the national economy was still stumbling to its feet. As markets opened in Thailand and Vietnam, exploitation of Cambodia's gem and timber resources by foreign businesses became widespread. Meanwhile, fighting between government and Khmer Rouge forces intensified, as the Khmer Rouge occupied large areas in the relatively inhospitable northern part of the country.

In October 1991 Cambodia's warring factions, the UN, and a number of interested foreign nations signed an agreement in Paris intended to end the conflict in Cambodia. The agreement provided for a temporary power-sharing arrangement between a United Nations Transitional Authority in Cambodia (UNTAC) and a Supreme National Council (SNC) made up of delegates from the various Cambodian factions. Prince Norodom Sihanouk, the former king and prime minister of Cambodia, served as president of the SNC.

The Paris accords and the UN protectorate pushed Cambodia out of its isolation and introduced competitive politics, dormant since the early 1950s. UNTAC sponsored elections for a national assembly in May 1993, and for the first time in Cambodian history a majority of voters rejected an armed, incumbent regime. A royalist party, known by its French acronym FUNCINPEC, won the most seats in the election, followed by the CPP, led by Hun Sen. Reluctant to give up power, Hun Sen threatened to upset the election results. Under a compromise arrangement, a three-party coalition formed a government headed by two prime ministers; FUNCINPEC's Prince Norodom Ranariddh, one of Sihanouk's sons, became first prime minister, while Hun Sen became second prime minister.

In September 1993 the government ratified a new constitution restoring the monarchy and establishing the Kingdom of Cambodia. Sihanouk became king for the second time. After the 1993 elections, no foreign countries continued to recognize the DK as Cambodia's legal government. The DK lost its UN seat as well as most of its sources of international aid.

The unrealistic power-sharing relationship between Ranariddh and Hun Sen worked surprisingly well for the next three years, but relations between the parties were never smooth. The CPP's control over the army and the police gave the party effective control of the country, and it dominated the coalition government. In July 1997 Hun Sen staged a violent coup against FUNCINPEC and replaced Prince Ranariddh, who was overseas at the time, with Ung Huot, a more pliable FUNCINPEC figure. Hun Sen's action shocked foreign nations and delayed Cambodia's entry into the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN). By the end of 1997, Cambodia was the only nation in the region that was not a member.

Despite the coup, elections scheduled for July 1998 proceeded as planned. Hundreds of foreign observers who monitored the elections affirmed that voting was relatively free and fair; however, the CPP harassed opposition candidates and party workers before and after the elections, when dozens were imprisoned and several were killed. The election gave the CPP a plurality of votes, but results, especially in towns, where voting could not be dictated by local authorities, indicated that the party did not enjoy widespread popular support. Prince Ranariddh and another opposition candidate, Sam Rainsy, took refuge abroad and contested the outcome of the election. In November the CPP and FUNCINPEC reached an agreement whereby Hun Sen became sole prime minister and Ranariddh became president of the National Assembly. The parties formed a coalition government, dividing control over the various cabinet ministries. In early 1999 the constitution was amended to create a Senate, called for in the 1998 agreement. These signs that Cambodia's political situation was stabilizing encouraged ASEAN to admit Cambodia to its membership a short time later.

Pol Pot died in 1998, and by early 1999 most of the remaining Khmer Rouge troops and leaders had surrendered. Rebel troops were integrated into the Cambodian army. In 1999 two Khmer Rouge leaders were arrested and charged with genocide for their part in the atrocities.

Since the Paris Accords of 1991, Cambodia's economic growth has depended on millions of dollars of foreign aid. Foreign interest in Cambodia has decreased, however, and the country has received diminishing economic assistance. This development, along with the continued lack of openness in Cambodian politics, has made Cambodia's prospects for democratization dim, as well as its chances for sustained economic growth.

Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanouk Ville are three special places for connoisseurs of Khmer food.

Rice and fish, together with array of herbs, sauces and spices, are the Khmer typical cuisine. Curries and soup with beef, pork, poultry and seafood can be bought from vendors along the streets.

Cuisine from all over the world is also found in Cambodia with over 100 restaurants such as European, American, Mexican, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Korean, Vietnamese and many others so visitors will be able to have many choices here.

Local cuisine

So many dishes are available and if you are eating at a roadside cafe then you can even make up your own dish. Vegetarians may find a problem with local meals but there is no need to worry as many places have very good menu's with Vegetarians in mind. Here is a sample selection of local food:

Bacon with sauce. Beef soup. Chicken soup or fowl soup. Beef steak. Beef grill or roast beef. Barbecue pork. Boiled chicken. Braise. Cheese fish with meat. Chilli. Chops. Chowder. Cream cheese. Curry. Curry chicken with potatoes. Chafing dish. Clay-made pot soup. Fish pudding with vegetables. Fried beefs with onion. Fried fish. Fried eggs with onion and mushroom. Fried meat with vegetables. Fried mince-fish with spices. Goat soup. Goulash. Hash. Pork sour soup. Roast pig. Roast chicken. Roast chicken with gravy. Roast duck with gravy. Roast pork with gravy. Roast fish. Salad of meat and vegetables. Stew.

Khmer fruits are rich in all types of vitamins and there is an amazing verity of apples, bananas, coconuts, custard apples, durians, grapes, guavas, hog plums, jackfruits, jujubes, lychees, longans, mangoes, mangosteens, marrows, melons, milk fruits, oranges, palm fruits, papayas, persimmons, pineapples, pomegranates, pomeloes, rambutans, rose apples, sapodillas, tamarinds, tangerines, watermelons plus others that will be found on you travels and they are available all year round at the many markets found in Cambodia.

Local beer

There are many brands available in Cambodia but the most popular ones are: Angkor Beer, Anchor Beer, ABC Beer (Stout), Tiger Beer, and Hennigan Beer.

In order to truly understand the real Cambodia, one must visit one of the great archeological sites in the world; the spiritual heart and identity of the Khmer people: the Angkor complex. Had any of the main temples, especially Angkor Wat been built anywhere else they would be as famous or as visited Taj Mahal, the Parthenon, the Coliseum, or the Pyramids of Egypt. Angkor is without doubt one of the most breathtaking architectural masterpieces left standing in the world today. Without witnessing them them at first hand it is impossible to gauge the enormity of task faced by the builders of the time and the fact they are so complete after all this time is further testament to the advanced construction techniques employed more than one millennium ago. Everything is built on a massive scale and one can only imagine the awe felt by ancient visitors as the civilisation was at its peak. It is estimated that over one million people lived ther making it the largest metropolis in its time. Witness the two hand dug reservoirs that served the civilisation's rice growing agriculture: The Eastern Baray measures 7 km by 1,8 km and the Western Baray a staggering 8 km by 2,3 km.
Built in the beginning of the XII century by King Soryavarman II, Angkor Wat is the cultural home of the Khmer people, in various guises has appeared and is still on the national flag. Had it been located in the Mediterranean basin it would have been one of the eight wonders of the world. 

The Lost City of Angkor was to remain undiscovered by Western archaeologists until the lat 19th century and ever since has continued to amaze all who see it for the first time: neither words nor pictures do it justice. Angkor Wat is a legacy of the might that was once the Khmer Empire, a detailed history of which has been carved into the many walls of this fortified temple. The temple is accessible by a giant stone causeway across the hundred ninety metre moat, itself an incredible feat of engineering, to the west face of the Wat.

Angkor Thom was built by Cambodia's greatest builder, Jayavarman VII. This ten square kilometre city is enclosed by an eight metre high wall and encircled by a hundred metre moat said to have been inhabited by fierce crocodiles. There are five twenty metre high gates in the wall in each of the North, West, and South walls and two in the East wall. Access is via causeways over the moat that are flanked by the statues of fifty four Gods on the left and -fifty four devils on the right, all seemingly engaged in a game of tug of war.

Erected by Jayavarman VII at the end of XII century, The Bayon is located in the geographical heart of Angkor Thom. The fifty four tower temple is a quite remarkable sight. Initially the temple seems to be a shapeless 
mass of grey and brown stone but as one approaches one realises that each of the towers is in fact carved and there are over two hundred huge enigmatic faces of Avalokitesharva bearing down on you wherever you turn. The Bayon is easily the most popular sight after Angkor Wat and no visit is complete without a trip to see this amazing and unique temple. 

Ta Prohm was built in the late 12th century by Jayavarman VII as a shrine to his mother and is another must for anyone coming to Siem Reap. As a monastery there were nearly three thousand priests here including eighteen high priests. Ta Prohm is unforgettable due to the massive trees that were left here intentionally by the archeologists working on the site. While clearing back the forest, it was decided to leave them in place to serve as a reminder of how the original discovers found it and other temples. Many of the trees have grown around and through the remains, and soar high above the temple. This temple, along with those of the Bayon and Angkor form the core of any visit to Siem Reap. 

Phnom Bakheng served as the temple mountain of the first city of Angkor as opposed to the previous centre of Rolous. The capital built on a lone hill offers panoramic views of Angkor Wat, Angkor  

Thorn and the surrounding areas. It is best visited in the late afternoon for a spectacular rise over Angkor Wat.

Banteay Srei. About 30 km North of Siem Reap, it was built in the second half of the Xth century, dedicated to Shiva. While some of the temples are impressive because of their sheer size, Banteay Srei stands alone in the quality of its construction and decoration. Its pink sandstone wall are decorated with what some consider to be the best carving of all and in an amazing state of preservation. Built in 967 and dedicated to Brahma it is located twenty five kilometres North of Angkor Wat.

The Small Circuit takes in several of the major and minor temples in the area. Beginning at Angkor Wat and running for seventeen kilomtres the circuit takes in the major elements of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei, and some of the minor interesting temples such as The Baphoun, The Terrace of the Elephants, the twelve Prasats, Spean Thma, and Sras Srang before returning to Angkor Wat.

The twenty-six kilometer Big Circuit is an extension on the little circuit but taking in Preah Neak Pean to the Eastern Mebon and ather various monuments like Ta Som, Preah Rup, before returning to Angkor Wat and is highly recommended to anyone spending three days or more in the complex. The Big Circuit encompasses a good representation of the rich variety of architecture here.

Phnom Kulen is widely regarded as the birthplace of the ancient Khmer empire and is some forty eight kilometres from Siem Reap. This hilltop site has the country's largest reclining Buddha and it was here that the King, Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java. It has only just returned to government hands after the fall of the Khmer Rouge and is currently fairly inaccessible due to the poor state of the roads especially in the rainy season. Cutting through the area is the River of 1000 Lingas. Just five centimetres under the water's surface over 1000 small carvings are etched into the sandstone riverbed while further downstream larger blocks of stone are carved with Apsaras, Vishnu, and other figures. All the sandstone used in the construction of Angkor was quarried here.

The Roulos Group was the capital of lndravarman I (877 to 889). These were the first temples built to last and are made of brick with some carved plaster reliefs. The group is made up of the three temples of Preah Ko, Bakong, and Lolei. Many of the later temples in the Angkor group are based on these earlier temples though rather than brick.

Phnom Penh
An admirable small historic city Phnom Penh, capital of the Kingdom of Cambodia founded since 1434, is a small city of around 1 million inhabitants, and also administrative and commercial center of the country. It is a vibrant bustling city nestling majestically on the banks of the confluence of the two mighty rivers of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap.

These rivers then split again as the Mekong and the Tonle Bassac at a place known to the Khmers as Chaktomuk, meaning four faces. Phnorn Penh is a veritable oasis compared to the modernity of other Asian capitals. With wide tree-lined boulevards and low-rise buildings Phnom Penh still harks back to the colonial days of this former French playground and the many older French colonial buildings, much in evidence, add to the ambiance. The area surrounding the Royal Palace has magnificent Khmer towers and remains particularly delightful. There are many open spaces and parks in the centre which the locals use for recreation and relaxation. Pedalled rickshaws, called cyclos, still ply the streets as in colonial days and provide an excellent opportunity for sightseeing and people watching as well as the taxi service.

Wat Phnom (Hill Temple)
Located on a man-made hill twenty seven metres high in the middle of Phnom Penh, Wat Phnom is a revered place of worship for all Khmers and is the namesake of the capital.

The original pagoda was built in 1373 to house four Buddha statues said to have been deposited by the waters of the Mekong. Behind the pagoda, there is a big stupa where is put the ashes of King Ponhea Yat, the first founder of the capital Phnom Penh. The temple is the focal point for many Buddhist ceremonies especially Pchum Ben and his highly revered by Phnom Penh residents. Wat Phnom has a unique atmosphere and is surrounded by various fortune tellers, mystics, faith healers, and elephant rides around the site are available. Entrance costs US$1

The Royal Palace is situed just opposite the Four Branches of the Mekong river; it was originally built in 1866, and reconstructed later in 1913, with numerous buildings of remarkable khmer architecture.

Unfortunately the royal residence, set back from the riverfront, is closed to visitors but is still visible from the outside and well worth seeing, located as it is between the Silver Pagoda and National Museum.

The National Museum, a great red and elegant building North of the Royal Palace, constructed in 1917, is the treasure of khmer archeology arts. Designed by George Groslier and the Ecole des Arts Cambodgiens, it was built in 1917 in traditional Khmer style and inaugurated by King Sisowat. The National Museum houses the world's foremost collection of ancient Khmer archeological, religious, and artistic artifacts from the 4th to the 13th centuries. There are over 5000 pieces and is the repository of the Kingdom's cultural wealth. In addition, the roof space is home to the largest bat colony in the world living in an artificial structure. Every evening these bats flock out of the roof and swarm around in the sky before searching for food. Open daily from 8 am to 11 am and 2:30 pm to 5 pm. Entrance fee US$2 per person. Photography is forbidden inside.

The Silver Pagoda, or the temple of the emerald Buddha, formerly a wooden building, was rebuilt in 1962 in concrete and marble. The pagoda is floored with over 5,329 silver tiles each weighing 1 kilo.

It is famous for its 90kg solid gold Buddha made in 1907 and an emerald Buddha said to be made of baccarat crystal. Sharing the pagoda are many other interesting artifacts and jewels and was one of the few temples to remain intact during the Khrner Rouge regime. Open daily from 8am to ll am and 2:30 pm to 5 pm. Entrance fee US$3 per person. Camera fee US$2. Video fee US$5. Photography is allowed in the outside exhibition areas only. Please remember that exposed knees and shoulders are considered disrespectful.

Toul Sleng Museum, Formally Toul Svay Prey School, Known as the Museum of Genocidal Crimes it was used by the Khmer Rouge as a detention and torture centre in the late 1970s. Today the building houses exhibits paintings and photographs of many of the victims. Visitors can see the crude cells built in the classrooms and the torture devices used to extract "confessions" in Stalinesque purges of the regime. Open daily from 8 am to 11 am and 2:30 pm to 5 pm. Entrance fee US$2 per person.

Phnom Penh Surroundings

The Killing Fields - Boeung Choeung Ek
Situated 15 kilometres south-west of Phnom Penh and made famous by the film of the same name it was a place where more than 17,000 civilians were killed and burried in massive graves; many of them transported here after detention and torture in Toul Sleng.

This place is a chilling reminder of the brutalities of the genocidal Khmer Rouge regime. In the centre of the area is a 17 story glass stupa which houses 8000 skulls exhumed from mass graves. Open daily. Entrance fee US$1 per person.
Please note that both the Toul Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields exhibits may be disturbing for some and aren't suitable for younger children and adults who are easily shocked.

Independence Monument
Built in 1958 as a memorial to Cambodia's war dead after the gaining of independence from France in 1953, the monument, built in the Angkorian style, consists of five levels decorated with 100 snake heads. It is at its most impressive later in the afternoon with shadows highlighting the complexity of the design and giving the structure a warm orange glow.


The Tonle Sap Riverfront
The recently refurbished riverfront park is the focal point for the Phnom Penh residents' leisure activities. Early risers can see the many locals welcoming the new day with Tai Chi and other exercises while the sun rises majestically over the river. In the early evening and all day Sunday many people stroll, picnic or just sit and watch the world go by. Local delicacies are served by vendors all along the riverfront and visitors can indulge in dried salted fish or another favourite, boiled duck embryos still in the shell.


National Library
The National Library is located next to the Royal Hotel and just West of Wat Phnom. This graceful building, another example of French colonial architecture, built in 1924 and set in floral gardens was sacked by the Khmer Rouge and turned into a stable. Many of the discarded books were picked up by the locals who donated them back to the library after 1979. Open daily from 8 am to 11 am and 2:30 pm to 5 pm. Entrance free.

The Markets
Of the more than a dozen markets in Phnom Penh many of them are of little interest to visitors, selling, as they do, general household purchases in many of the districts of the city. There are, however, several centrally located markets of real interest to shoppers, browsers and souvenir hunters alike. Be warned that nothing is priced and bargaining is a must, but unlike some neighbouring countries, haggling here is good natured and fun. 

The Central Market (New Market) is one of the largest and busiest markets in Phnorn Penh. Built in 1937 by French architects and surprisingly cool, even in the heat of the hottest day, many interesting products are available. The eastern side, which is the main entrance, has many souvenirs and ornaments on sale from T-shirts to large stone heads. In the centre are the many jewellery stores and precious stone vendors as well as a plethora of electronic goods merchants, cloth sellers and other dealers; most of them selling things considerably cheaper than back home.

The Toul Tom Pong Market (The Russian Market) is probably the city's best source of objects d'art. Items for sale include wooden and stone carvings, various ritual objects, silverware, and old lndochinese notes and coins. There is a large range of antiquities and curios for those prepared to ferret around the various stalls and there are also gold and silversmiths inside the market who can be seen custom making jewellery. This too is a good source of both Cambodian and Chinese silk and clothes. This is one of the most popular markets in Phnom Penh with foreign residents and tourists who can spend many an interesting hour browsing before choosing that perfect gift. 

The O'Russei Market on the North side of the Olympic Stadium is a typical Cambodian market catering to the everyday needs of the populace. Here the sights and smells of this market give the visitor the feel of a local market with many house- wives still purchasing their foodstuffs on a daily basis. This market is full of local character and one can only imagine the banter that takes place between all the vendors and customers. Here, is one of the best selections of the different types of fruit from all over the region, though the choice, naturally, depends on the season. 
The Olympic Market is probably one of the cheapest markets in town with lots of wholesaling going on here. It was renovated and reopened in 1994 as a three story modern building with reportedly Cambodia's only escalators.

Mekong Island
A full day trip to Mekong Island is an excellent way to sample the daily lives and traditions of rural life in Cambodia. This ten-hectare island has been planned as an authentic showcase of the cultural, zoological, and agricultural diversity and richness of Cambodia. 

The price includes transport, excellent lunch and a captivating show of traditional Cambodian dance. There are also elephant rides available on very friendly Asian elephants.

Kien Svay
Eighteen kilometres away from Phnom Penh, Kien Svay is the definitive Cambodian leisure resort. Every weekend many Phnom Penh residents get away from it all and relax by the water. Here they rent "Water Houses", covered platforms built on stilts sunk into the river, and picnic on the water. They are accessible by boat and the platform owners take you there and back. There are also relaxing boat cruises that take you around the resort area.

Mo Ha Liep Resort Centre (The children's park)
This recreation area is out of Phnom Penh on the route to Kien Svay. This is a large park where 70 kinds of fruit trees have been planted with all of them being labelled in English and Khmer. There is a large swimming pool and Khmer food is served daily.

Udong
An ancient capital from the latter stages of the Khmer Empire and crowing site of the kings is located atop two parallel ridges 40 Km North of Phnom Penh. Udong offers spectacular views of the surrounding country and the innumerable sugar palm trees that punctuate the countryside. 

King Ang Dung, the great grandfather of the present king, King Sihanouk, was crowned here and many locals and foreign residents alike picnic here on weekends. 

Phnom Chisor
This ancient Khmer temple stands on an 80 by 100 metre square plateau and faces East. Constructed in the 11th century of laterite and brick with carved sandstone lintels, the complex is surrounded by the partially ruined walls of a two and a half metre wide gallery with inward facing windows. As with the other hilltop temples there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and Phnom Chisor makes an ideal excursion combined with Tonle Bati / Ta Prohm Temple.

Tonle Bati / Ta Prohm Temple
Not far South of Phnom Penh on the route to Phnom Chisor is a 12th century temple, Ta Prohm, built by Jayavaraman VII (1181-1201). Consecrated to the Buddha and the Brahma, the temple is noted for its refined bas reliefs. 

Nearby is a smaller temple, Yeay Peau, which also has remarkable stone carvings. Near Ta Prohrn is a small lake, Tonle Bati, which is similar to Kien Svay as a leisure resort though on a smaller scale. Again there are "Water Houses" for rent and various food stalls.

South Coast

Kampot
The pretty riverine town of Kampot is just five kilometres from the sea and serves the very popular seaside resort of Kep. Once a fashionable haunt of the French elite it was known as La Perle de la Cote d'Agathe and has stunning offshore islands and a beautiful bay.

King Sihanouk owned one of these islands and would often use it for entertaining. This region is famous for its production of durian, the foul smelling fruit, and reputedly has the best seafood in the country.

Sihanoukville (Kompong Som), Cambodia's only maritime port is 232 kilometres from Phnom Penh and accessible via one of the best inter-provincial roads in the country. Kompong Som is not only a seaport but an area famous for its picture-postcard tropical beaches. Situated as it is on a headland, visitors can choose from a range of beaches, several of which can often remain completely deserted. The most popular are Ochatial beach and Sokha Beach due their immediacy to the town. 

Local fishermen will take visitors to any one of the nearby islands where the coral, teeming with tropical fish, is perfect for snorkeling, diving, and fishing. There are many restaurants catering to various national tastes but its well worth trying the freshly caught crab, shrimps, and other seafood the region has to offer.

The resort was established in 1964 and can be visited all year round to appreciate the warm sands, cool breezes and clear blue skies.

Bokor Hill Station
In keeping with the colonial practices of the time, many of the French elite, unwilling to become accustomed to the heat of the Cambodian summer, retreated to the Bokor Hill station set in the Elephant Mountains. 

At an elevation of just over 1000m it is famous for its pleasant climate, clear streams and tranquil surroundings. Visitors will be taken in by the stunning panoramas, forested vistas and breathtaking views of the sea. The best time to visit is between November and May.

Tourist activities in Cambodia are divided into three categories

• Exploring Khmer ancient temples in Siem Reap, Preah Vihear, Kandal, and Takeo
• Tracing frescos and murals of the ancient temples in Siem Reap, Preah Vihear, Kandal, and Takeo
• Visiting Buddhist pagodas and museums in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh
• Visiting the Independence Monument and other monuments in Phnom Penh and its surroundings
• Watching kites flown in Phnom Penh
• Joining the Royal Ploughing Ceremony and Water Festival in Phnom Penh
• Participating in Khmer traditional games and dancing during the Khmer New Year’s and during the other ceremonies/ festivals
• Visiting the indigenous peoples of the rural areas.

• Visiting floating villages of the Kampong Phluk Commune in Siem Reap Province
• Watching birds at the Prèk Toal ground in Siem Reap Province
• Watching wildlife sanctuaries in Siem Reap Province
• Taking boat trips along the Tonlé Sap Lake and Mekong River
• Watching fishing activities on the Tonlé Sap Lake and Mekong River
• Canoeing among the flooded forest at the Tonlé Sap Lake
• Exploring the jungle in the northeast of the Angkor area
• Cycling around the countryside of Siem Reap Province
• Exploring mountain caves/ caverns in Kampot Province;
• Trekking at the Bokor National Park in Kampot Province;
• Relaxing on the Tonsay Island in Kèp City
• Visiting waterfalls in Kampot Province and Kampong Speu Province
• Swimming and diving in Sihanouk Ville, Koh Kong Province, and Kèp City
• Enjoying the pristine beaches of the Rong Island in Sihanouk Ville
• Boating among the mangrove forest at the Ream National Park in Sihanouk Ville
• Spotting sea dolphins at the Ream National Park in Sihanouk Ville
• Scuba-diving and exploring coral reefs at the bottom of the sea of Sihanouk Ville
• Sailing in Sihanouk Ville
• Paragliding in Sihanouk Ville
• Discovering islands of Koh Kong Province
• Hiking to the Chambok Waterfall at Kirirom National Park in Kampong Speu Province
• ruising down the river from the Andong Toek to the Village Chi Phat in the southern Mountain Range of the Cardamom
• Trekking in the jungles of the Mountain Range of the Cardamom
• amping in the jungles of the Mountain Range of the Cardamom
• Visiting the Pong Roul Waterfall on the Srè Ambel River.

• Visiting the Ramsar wetland in Stung Treng
• Cruising down the Mekong River from Stung Treng to Kratie
• Spotting Mekong River dolphins at the Kampi resort in Kratie
• Trekking at the Virachey National Park in Rattanak Kiri
• Swimming in the Yeak Laom Lake, Rattanak Kiri
• Visiting the Bousra Waterfall in Mondul Kiri
• Visiting the Srè Pok Wilderness Area in Mondul Kiri
• Elephant riding in Rattanak Kiri and Mondul Kiri
• Meeting the indigenous peoples of Rattanak Kiri and Mondul Kiri provinces
• Discovering the trails of the Mekong.

Tourists can freely tour around the potential cities and provinces of Cambodia by bus, taxi, motorbike, boat, and plane at day and at night. They can also travel by all transport (by taxi, car, bus, motorcycle taxi, motorbike, and Tuk-tuk “quadri-cycle”) within Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanouk Ville.

In Phnom Penh, the cyclo that can be rented at a maximum cost of US$ 3 per hour kindly provides visitors with the spectacular sights of the city.

Currently, brand new metered taxis with insurance for passengers are seen on the streets in Phnom Penh. These taxis are invested by Chinese firm Global Taxi. The Global Taxi Company will charge passengers 2,000 Riel for every one km. The amount of 400 Riel will be charged for every three minutes of waiting.

Bus travel is made available from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (with Angkor Wat Temple as a World Heritage site), to Sihanouk Ville (with Ream National Park and pristine white sandy beaches), to Pursat (with Aoral Mount and Tonlé Sap Lake as an ecological, geographical wonder), to Battambang (with Roniem Daun Sam Wildlife Sanctuary), to Poipèt (as an International Border Checkpoint), to Banteay Meanchey (with Banteay Chhmar Temple), to Kratie (with Mekong River’s rare dolphins), and to Preah Vihear Province (with the site of Preah Vihear Temple as a new cultural, tourist destination).